lost media but with old books where are they??!?!?!

surf books i love so much but there so hard to find, my book im reading right now is called fierce heart by  stuart holmes colmen and another i love so much is the first women surfer in red bull to surf 40-80 foot wave called beyond the board by maya graviera its so good  both autobiography's, but  in her book she talks of the sexism and troubles she conquered  in the industry to surf not to compete but for the thrill of the waves.

the fierce heart talks of the story of makaha in the perspective of a young surfer who realizes that the  storys people around him told where twisted to fit a narrative without context, but realizes there not  bad mafia people  just natives protective of the there land, it explores native culture of surfing and the friend's he met along the way it encourages those to take off the touristic rose colored glasses and see hawii as for what it is, stolen land and the genocide of its people, surfing became a way to revive there culture but to also retrieve what was once there's thats the part im on at least!! let me know about any you like!!